Saturday, May 29, 2010

Dog Dental Care: Tooth Brushing Fundamentals...


Dog Dental Care: Tooth Brushing Fundamentals

Taking care of your dog's teeth such as brushing should not become a burden to you or to your dog. Instead, you should make it an enjoyable bonding time for you and your pet. Remember to take things slowly, avoid overly restraining your dog if he shows dislike in the activity. Provide praises to your dog throughout the brushing session to make him feel comfortable. Brushing sessions should also be short and positive so that your pet will learn to look forward to this kind of activity instead of dreading it.

Daily brushing of your dog’s teeth does not only provide quality bonding time but helps prevent occurrence of dental disease such as periodontal disease, the most common canine dental disease. Periodontal disease in your pet is manifested by this signs: bad breath, loose teeth, gingivitis, chattering, drooling, loss of appetite and bleeding gums.

Tooth brushing should be introduced to your pet in his early age so that he can easily accept the procedure. Preferably, brushing should be started when your pup is 8 to 12 weeks old. Ensure to have your veterinarian check your dog's teeth before starting a tooth-brushing program. If your dog has damaged teeth or dental disease, brushing may be painful and he may even bite you just to avoid the activity. Before the actual brushing, have your pet dog get used to your looking into his mouth. Praise or reward him with treats after every successful mouth check-up.

Below is a step-by-step procedure that will help you in brushing your dog’s teeth:

  1. Start the session by offering your dog a taste of pet toothpaste. Pet toothpastes have a variety of flavors like poultry and malt so that your dog will like the taste. Have your dog get used to the flavor and consistency of the toothpaste. If your dog dislikes the taste of the toothpaste, try a different flavor until you find the kind that suits him. Repeat this step for a few days or until your dog looks forward to licking the paste.
  2. Practice running your finger along the gums of the upper teeth with the toothpaste in your finger, and then gently rub it on one of the large teeth in the front of the mouth. Have your dog feel comfortable with having something placed against his teeth and gums. When your pet is already used to the taste of the toothpaste and the finger in his mouth, you are ready for step 3.
  3. Place your dog on a comfortable surface before brushing. As much as possible, use minimal restraint on your pet to provide him the idea that you are not forcing him to do this activity.
  4. Lift your dog’s upper lip gently and place the bristles of the toothbrush along the gum line of the upper back teeth and angle slightly up, so the bristles get under the gum line. Making small circles along the gum lines, work from back to front. Avoid brushing the entire mouth at first and make brushing sessions less than 30 seconds.
  5. Once your dog accepts having several teeth brushed, gradually increase the number of teeth you are brushing. Provide an impression to your dog that you are just playing a game during brushing.
  6. Always remember to provide praises and treats every successful step of brushing your dog’s teeth so that he will start to look forward to his next brushing session.




Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Your Dog Is Talking To You – Are You Listening?

Your Dog Is Talking To You – Are You Listening?

Dogs actually have the ability to signal to us precisely how they are feeling at any given time. If we are attuned to their signs we will know what their emotional state is. Dogs can display various emotions including: happiness, sadness, boredom, excitement, and fear.

If you closely watch your dog you will notice that his eyes, ears, body, and tail are in an almost continuous, though subtle movement. This is his way of communicating his emotional feelings. Studies are confirming the fact that animals use a very inconspicuous and refined system of communication. The good news is that with a little effort we can learn to understand our domesticated dogs.

In studies conducted by Jane Goodall and Dr. Michael W. Fox, recognized authority on canine body language, confirmed that wild dogs of Africa and wolves communicated a wide range of attitudes to each other, including affection, dominance, submission, interest, disgust, joy, disappointment, and fear. These emotions were communicated using the slightest body movements.

Although our dogs have lost some sensitivity to the language that would be used if they were living in the wild, they still use much of this inherited form of communication. Learning to read your dog’s body language will require a keen eye and close observation over what is happening at the time that your dog is displaying any given movement.

There are some basic things you can look for but like everything else, not every dog follows the same pattern as the others. Here are a few typical guidelines to get you started. Dogs use their tails to signal that they are happy or afraid. If their tail is wagging they are happy. If it is tucked down they are showing fear and submission. When their tail is proudly held high they are feeling good about themselves. Ears are also very telling when it comes to signaling emotions. Dogs sometimes perk their ears in an adorable quizzical fashion as if to ask a question. They may also tilt their head to the side when puzzled. The ears may be held in a backward direction against the head when the dog is angry.

As you become increasingly skilled at reading your dog’s emotional language or identifying his moods, your bond with him will deepen and grow even stronger. Many professionals that have lots of experience in working with dogs have developed the ability to read canine language very well. This is true of dog behaviorists, dog trainers, veterinarians, groomers, breeders, and even life-long dog owners.

It seems that dogs are able to recognize and appreciate when you correctly read their emotional language. Perhaps this is why dogs seem to automatically like certain individuals. Maybe the dog immediately recognizes when a person understands him.

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Friday, May 21, 2010

Which Dog Bowl Is Right For Your Dog?

  Which Dog Bowl Is Right For Your Dog?

When you became a dog owner you became responsible for his care in every way. This includes feeding him as well as meeting every other need in his life. While the process of caring for a dog is not complicated many people do not give as much thought as they should about some of the basic care. This includes things like training your dog basic commands that could literally save his life, and learning about proper nutrition for your pet so you can insure that he gets a proper diet. Taking that one step farther, consideration should be given to the type of bowl that your dog will eat from.

Nowadays there are lots of choices available when it comes to dog dishes. We can find bowls that match our décor, personalized styles, or even self-feeding type bowls. They are also made from various materials, including everything from plastic and ceramic to metal.

Ideally the dog bowl should be easy to clean. Plastic bowls may not be a good choice for puppies because young dogs sometimes like to chew on things, including their food dish. A more durable bowl may be safer for them.

Size really does matter. The size of the bowl should be right for the amount of food that you feed your dog. Using a bowl that is too large can easily lead to over-feeding. Obviously, that can result in your dog becoming obese and unhealthy. Using a bowl that is too small can mean more work for you since you will have to feed your dog more often.

Another very important consideration is the depth of the bowl. If your dog has a short face you will need to use a shallow bowl. But dogs that have long muzzles can eat from deeper dishes without difficulty. One more issue related to the dog’s comfort when eating is the elevation of the dish. When dishes are raised up at a higher level, so that the dog does not have to bend his neck downward as he eats and swallows, eating is more comfortable for the dog. This is especially true for larger dogs. Dishes can be purchased in small raised holders or you can improvise with your own devices.

If your dog has a tendency to scoot his bowl across the floor you may want to consider looking for bowls that have rubber feet that will keep them in place. Another option is adding the rubber pads yourself or simply using a rubber mat to place the bowls on. Self-feeding bowls are the ones that have a dish that is continually filled. The reservoir is filled with a large quantity of food that drops down as the dog eats.

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Tuesday, May 18, 2010

The Advantages Of Buying From A Reputable Breeder...

   The Advantages Of Buying From A Reputable Breeder

Making the decision to add a new puppy to your family isn’t one that should be taken lightly. Many adjustments will be made by the family as well as the puppy. After all, the little pup will be leaving his momma, his littermates and the only humans he has ever known. But if the puppy has gotten a good start in life with a reputable breeder he is much more likely to have an easy time adjusting to his new permanent home.

The first thing you have to do is find the perfect puppy, and you will most likely begin by searching out a reputable breeder of the particular type of dog that you desire. The trick is to buy your puppy from someone that is ethical and that cares more about where the puppy is going than about making money.

There are many advantages of making your purchase from a breeder that value’s both preservation of the breed itself and the puppy’s best interests. First of all, such a breeder will attempt to mate dogs in an effort to promote AKC breed standards and that result in happy and healthy puppies with sweet dispositions. These breeders will provide proper care to the mother dog before and during the birth and to the puppies before they move to their permanent home.

Reputable breeders are willing to discuss the ancestry of a puppy, as well as the medical history. In most cases both parent dogs will be available for you to see (or at least the mother), when you visit. Additionally, many of these breeders will provide a puppy starter package that includes a sample of the food the puppy has been eating, and often may also include such items as a blanket that has been used by the momma dog, the puppy and his littermates, plus a toy.

Because these items have the scent of the puppy’s siblings and mother they are comforting to him. Many times these simple touches can make the difference between a smooth adjustment to a new home and several sleepless nights due to a lonely crying puppy. Speaking of problems with a new puppy, most breeders will suggest that you contact them with any questions regarding how to care for your puppy.

Reputable breeders understand the importance of socialization for dogs, and this socialization should begin as soon as possible. This means the breeder should spend time with the puppies each day. By stroking the puppies and playing with them on a regular basis they will become accustomed to human touch more quickly. Puppies should also be introduced to other people and other animals early in their lives. This helps the pup adapt to various people and animals. This of course helps to insure that the puppy will be a well adjusted pet that gets along with other pets in the home.

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Sunday, May 16, 2010

Should You Have Your Dog’s Ears Cropped?

  Should You Have Your Dog’s Ears Cropped?

There are several dog breeds that regularly are seen with cropped ears; including Boxers, Schnauzers, Great Danes, and others. Thousands of young puppies are forced to endure surgery which is expensive, uncomfortable, relatively dangerous, and can be painful in the recovery phases. The amazing part is this surgery is totally unnecessary.

This practice was started centuries ago when dog fighting sports were legal and popular. The idea was that it was more humane to crop the dogs’ ears rather than have them shredded during a battle, which of course, would be more painful and have potentially worse complications. But the point is that because we no longer allow our dogs to fight for sport there is no humane and practical purpose of cropping ears. But the expensive and needless surgery continues.

We have become accustomed to seeing certain breeds with cropped ears and if we saw one with natural ears he would stand out. Even though AKC does not require cropped ears, a dog with natural ears in a ring full of crop-eared animals would most likely not stand a chance of winning. We simply expect a breed to look a certain way and when a dog doesn’t we question his bloodline and basically think he looks funny or out of place. Breeders and dog owners alike have complied with this expectation of society and therefore it is perpetuated – the cycle continues.

There are obviously numerous reasons not to crop a dog’s ears. Please see the list below:

    The surgery is unnecessary and all surgeries come with a certain amount of risk. Ear cropping is no exception to that. It simply is not justifiable.

    The surgery is usually done when the puppy is between six and ten weeks old. This is a time when the pup is emotionally fragile. Permanent damage to the puppy’s disposition can result as a reaction to the trauma of the surgery, the pain and frustration of post-operative bandaging, racking and taping.

    There can be quite a loss of blood during this surgery. The physical effect on the puppy can be very damaging.

    Ear-cropping happens about the same time that the puppy is ready to be sold. In many states the surgery must be performed by a veterinarian.  This adds to the cost the breeder must incur which means he/she will take a large cut from the profits or have to pass the cropping costs along to the buyer. And most buyers do not find puppies with bandaged heads as attractive as those without.

It’s your decision in the end. If you want your dog to look like all the others then ear cropping is probably the way to go. But please keep in mind that ear cropping is a choice, not a requirement.

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Saturday, May 15, 2010

Preparations For Bringing Your Puppy Home...

  Preparations For Bringing Your Puppy Home

After what seems like a long wait you are finally ready to get your new puppy. Preparing for a new puppy is exciting, after all, you are adding to your family. And just like preparing for a human baby, you need to be ready for this little fur-baby.

Planning ahead will make the move to your home easier for the puppy and for you. One of the first things you will want to do is have the puppy checked out by a veterinarian. It’s a good idea to know in advance, what veterinarian you plan to take your puppy to. Some veterinarians will do this first check for free. It is simply to confirm that your puppy is healthy and that the vaccinations are on track. This also gives you an opportunity to ask any questions you may have at that time.

Most breeders will provide a puppy packet which usually includes a sampling of the food the pup is used to and a toy and/or blanket that has been used by the momma dog and the littermates. The scent on these items is comforting to the puppy. Some breeders also include booklets of information related to the care of the puppy.

Your puppy will need a safe environment. He will be curious and he is likely to chew on any and every thing. It is your responsibility to see that he is kept in an area that is safe. A puppy play pen works well for this. These are flexible in shape and even in size. They are large enough to have a place for a bed, a place for food and water, a play area, and a place for the puppy pad. Many people find that dog crates can come in handy at times.

Because your puppy will want to be with you as much as possible you will probably find it convenient to have at least two or three dog beds for him. Put these in strategic places that you spend a lot of time, spots that will be close to you.

Grooming supplies are essential. At minimum you will need a dog shampoo and a brush. But keep in mind that dogs do not need bathes as often as humans; in fact, you should not bath your dog more than one time per week unless it is absolutely necessary.

Every puppy needs toys. You can make your own with pieces of rope, old toys, or even an old sock with a tennis ball in it. Or you can buy actual dog toys such as the squeaky toys or stuffed animals made especially for dogs. As long as you provide all the essentials, including food, water, playtime and love, your puppy will be happy.

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Friday, May 14, 2010

How Important Is Your Dog’s Name?

How Important Is Your Dog’s Name?

When you get a new puppy you of course have to name him or her. If the puppy is registered you will need a name for the official registration papers as well as a call name. Both names are important, but in different ways.

The registered name often begins with the name of the kennel that the dog came from. This is also a part of his show name. All registered names must be original. Although these names have a rather fancy sound to them, when you understand more about how they are given they are actually fun.

Besides the kennel name the registered names can include the name of the dam and or the sire. Any combination of ancestors along with a theme is very common. However, AKC limits the name to thirty-six characters in length, including spaces, so if the names are long it can certainly present a problem. For an extra fee the length can be extended up to fifty characters.

Registered names often have no relationship whatsoever with the call name. Call names should be rather short; two to three syllables is the recommended length. Another thing to keep in mind is that if you have more than one dog the names should be different enough that the dogs can easily distinguish them. For example, naming one dog Holly and another one Molly would not be a good idea.

Many people choose to name their dogs right away; in fact, they may even have the name picked out before they ever see the dog. Other people want to keep the dog a wait or two before naming him so that they can choose a name that matches the dog’s personality. And still others prefer a name that describes the dog’s physical appearance to some degree, such as naming a big dog Bruno or a Black dog Blackie.

Originality is nice but when it comes to dogs, just like people’s names, there are certain names that are all time favorites for particular breeds or dog stereotypes. And just as with human names, dog names sometimes become popular because of a TV show, a song, an actor, a movie, a rock band, etc. Since dogs can live to be up to twenty years or longer it is suggested that the name be one that is somewhat evergreen; simply meaning that the name will have significance in the years to come, even if the namesake doesn’t.

Once you have decided on a name you should begin using it as much as possible. The goal is to find ways to get your dog to associate the name with a meaning. By using his name regularly he will quickly pick up on the fact that the name refers to him.

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Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps...

Housebreaking Your Dog In Four Simple Steps

Ask any dog owner what is the most important thing that their new dog learns and 9 out of 10 will say that they want their dog to be housetrained. The problem is that there are more dogs that are not housebroken than are. The reason for that is because many dog owners are not patient enough to train their dogs, so they give up.

Dogs actually do want to please their owners. They are pack animals and because you are the one that provides food and shelter you are the alpha dog; you are the pack leader. But you have to think like a dog and work with them.

Housebreaking can be done in four simple steps as follows:

1)    Restrict the area that your dog is allowed to freely roam in. This should be no more than the area that you can keep watch over. By limiting the area to what you can supervise you will be able to closely monitor your dog.

2)    Be diligent about taking your dog out as you should. Puppies will need to go out more often than older dogs. Always be ready to immediately take the pet outdoors when he wakes up. This is a time that you count on that he will look for a spot to ‘go’. Dogs also ‘go’ after eating, drinking, and exercise. Once again, older dogs can wait much longer than puppies.

3)    When you take the dog out be sure to say whatever word or phrase you want him to associate with the deed. Just keep in mind that you may be saying this in public at some point in time so make it something that is not embarrassing. Taking your dog to the same place each time helps him to associate the spot with the deed. Do not play with your dog during these trips outdoors. He needs to understand that the trip has a purpose. When he finishes you should lavish praise on him, let him know he did good.

4)    Repeat until your dog gets the idea and begins signaling to you that he needs to go out. If your dog makes a mess indoors it means that you were not monitoring as closely as you should have been. Never punish your dog for accidents. Simply continue with the training and expect that there will be a few accidents along the way. Some dogs continue to have occasional accidents but others will do anything not to ‘go’ indoors.

Many small breed owners find that the use of puppy pads works for their dogs. Rather than taking their little dog out the dog simply messes on the pad and it is disposed of. This also works for dogs that are left alone for long periods of time. 

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Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Dog Crates: Indoor Dog Dens ...

Dog Crates: Indoor Dog Dens

Many dog owners wonder what dog supplies are important to have for their little friends. While they know they need to provide food, shelter, and toys, there are often questions regarding the use of dog crates. The questions are usually related to housetraining.

First we need to discuss how dog crates can compare to dog dens. In the wild dogs have dens as their homes. This could be a cave, an area under fallen a log, or even under an out building. These dens provide the dogs with a certain amount of shelter and protection. The dens make them feel safe.

Essentially, the dogs will use their dens as a place to sleep and relax. They strive to keep the area clean. In other words they do not urinate or defecate inside the den.

Dogs living in the home also look for a place to serve as a den. They may choose to use a spot behind or under a piece of furniture. But if a dog crate is provided they are very likely to accept that as the den – that is, if the dog crate is used correctly.

Dog crates should never be used as a place of punishment. Instead they should be the dog’s safe place – the place they go for comfort. Be sure that the crate is large enough to be comfortable for your pet. You can help create that feeling of reassurance by adding a soft blanket or other bedding material for your furry little friend. It’s also a good idea to keep a favorite toy in the crate.

The idea is to make the time in the crate enjoyable. This even includes when you are using a crate as a housebreaking aid. The reason crates are helpful in this training task is that you can keep your puppy (or dog) confined for a period of time without making a mess of the crate. Remember, the dog will accept the crate as his den and he wants to keep his den clean.

Keep in mind that puppies need to relieve themselves very often. You can expect the need immediately after waking up, after eating or drinking, after playing or other exercise, and sometimes in between. Of course you should not keep your puppy in the crate all the time. The crate should be used when you are not available to watch over your puppy.

However, it is best to allow the puppy to be in a confined area with you whenever possible. If you must be gone for long periods of time you may want to invest in a dog play pen. These pens offer a larger area but still provide a safe and confined place for the puppy to stay while you are gone.
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